Well autumn aye?!

I always find this a strange turn of seasons. Especially because the transition is so vague. Spring is cut and dried. We are so over winter that we are happy to declare the 1st of September the first day of spring no matter how freezing and miserable it is. It is spring people and we just need to wrap up warm and get on with it. Embrace the cold, it won’t be like that for much longer. We are braver in spring. Each climbing degree is cause for celebration. Each slightly later sunset is a glimmer of hope. We get out there and do stuff because the growing season is upon us.


Orange seems to be the predominant colour of the autumn season – that and the pale grey of powdery mildew!

At the other end of the growing season there is a reluctance for it to end. Summer just flashed by in the blink of an eye, surely, we aren’t ready to enter the slippery slope down to the chill of winter again. I’ve only just warmed up. Well to be fair, I’ve overcooked. It was a hot summer and despite good intentions, I didn’t do as much as I wanted to do because it was too hot. The season we long for all year turns out to be just as unbearable at times as the one we loath. We just lie to ourselves because summer is better than winter, right?!


The lush growth that once flourished across the garden has taken up an air of fatigue.

In autumn we aren’t as brave as we are in spring. The temperatures drop a couple of degrees and suddenly it is too cold. I saw someone say on social media the other day “apparently 21ᵒC is the new freezing!” Six months ago, I would have contemplated going swimming in temperatures like that. (I say contemplate loosely) and now I find I’m reaching for socks and complaining it is really too cold to do anything in the garden, not until it warms up a little.

empty beds

At this point in the season this is a common sight… beds bereft of their once verdant crops and soil dry from a season of giving.

Summer makes you soft! Well it makes me soft. I don’t feel as fit as I did in the spring either. The garden doesn’t actually require much physical work like digging in the spring (which is just as well as it is too hot!) And the food is good, so good, the desire to over indulge in another heaping bowl of fresh tomato pasta with homegrown onions and garlic and fresh basil and a cheeky glass of red to go with. To not eat the glut would be wasteful, but it turns out eating the glut can full the waist!


Ahhh Basil, the seasoning of summer

So here we are in this weird twilight of a season and I wonder if I wasn’t such a gardener, ruled by the seasons would I notice the change had occurred at all? Or has it? You see the weather hasn’t really changed. The end of a heat wave made the normal weather for this time of year take on a decidedly autumnal feel, but the sky is still blue, and the days are still long. Or long enough for this weary body to not notice the sun going down is closer to bed time, or is bed time getting closer to the sun going down? Who knows?! The days are still hot, most of the time – the afternoons can be positively sweaty!


And yet some plants carry on regardless of what the season is doing, so long as its needs are being met. This watermelon clearly didn’t get the memo the seasons have changed.

And to make matters worse there is confusion as to when this change over happens. By the meteorological calendar the seasons change every three months on the 1st and for my control freakery in the garden this is perfect. But astronomically we are still in summer for another couple of weeks – Yay! But you can’t really have your bread buttered on both sides – can you? Start spring by the calendar and end it on the equinox? I suppose I could. It would help to ease my angst at all the gardeners in the northern hemisphere counting away my growing season as they countdown to their spring. They are very valiant sticking to their guns and holding out for the later astronomical spring start. I don’t have that kind of self-control!

Broad bean cover crop

But all is not lost, the broad bean cover crop is emerging from the dusty soil bringing with it a promise of something good ahead. (But not the beans themselves as they aren’t all that nice!)

But whatever season we are in, the garden is calling out to me to make a few changes and get it ready for the months to come. There is something in the air that makes this window of transition subtly noticeable, and as a gardener, in nature most days you become attuned to it. Like when you notice your best friend has changed her perfume or has a new pair of shoes. And I wouldn’t have it any other way. For all you non-gardeners out there who barely notice the seasons: “The end is nigh!”

Come again soon – things are come out and things are going in.

Sarah the Gardener : o)

Cycle Three

Finally, we are at the end of my plans for the future of the garden.  It will be such a relief not to have to think about it ever again.  I have my notes and can refer to them each autumn and know exactly where I stand.  Of course, there will be tweaking and changes going forward, especially when I find out how these summer crops linger in a frost free winter.  Unless last winter was a one off and we get hit with a multitude of frosts from April to October!

Garden plan

The final crop rotation cycle is laid out and easy to read.


Bed 16:  was carrots and root crops – will be garlic

As I discovered in my original ponderings around this whole crop rotation conundrum, my carrots may be problematic for my early garlic.  I have toyed with the idea since of moving the seedlings across now while they are small, but they hate being transplanted and at this time of year stopping them frying while they re-establish will require constant attention.  Or do I just sow more in the new place now anyway.  But then my parsnips will need to be relocated before the early garlic unless – I leave them both there for the moment and make one more attempt at mid-winter garlic once they are gone and worry about this problem next winter.  That buys me a couple more months for them to mature and be eaten before the spot is needed.  You never know the mid-winter garlic might just work this time.  Or I could start the ones to go in the gap into pots…  that worked last season when I didn’t have a garden.  Hmmm options, options, options.

  • Winter: Before April, empty and eat the crops in the bed and re-enrich the soil and plant early garlic and possibly plant normal garlic midwinter in the problem carrot and parsnip spot.
  • Spring: Just weed, feed and water until the harvest is ready.

Oh my poor parsnip. I may just need to put them into a different bed where they won’t be hurried. There is nothing like a parsnip mash or roasted parsnip in the dead of winter.

Bed 17:  was potato – will be carrots and root crops

I still have half a bed of spuds tucked beneath the soil but only because I didn’t know how I was going to store them.  But on my last trip to the supermarket on the weekend, I saw they had brown paper bags for 20 cents to replace the now banned plastic bags, so a bought a load, much to the bemusement of the checkout ladies when I wouldn’t let them pack my groceries into them.  So now I can dig up the spuds, clearing the way for carrots.

  • Winter: Well – from now, like a carrot fanatic I need to sieve the rows they will be in and revitalise with a meagre handful of blood and bone. And then sow more carrots.  For the rest of the bed I can dig over and add compost and other goodies and sow beetroot, fennel and parsnip.  I’ll start the beetroot and fennel in my nursery bed where I’ll be able to have a closer control over them and all the other winter seedlings.
  • Spring: Come spring I’ll sow a new row of fennel and I’ll continue to succession sow carrots and beetroot.
Potatoes in paper bags

The potatoes should store nicely in the paper bags – away from the light, with the added advantage of seeing at a glance what they are good for so I can make wise choices when cooking my spuds.

Bed 18:  was beans – will be potatoes

Potatoes normally go in around Sept 16 – 100 days until Christmas for those lovely spuds perfect for the festive table.  But I have found I can plant them all year round here. Last year I grew them in containers.  So, I think I’ll pop in a few into containers now to keep them going and if it gets cold, I’ll bring them under cover.  But for now, the bed has beans.  I’m not all that partial to fresh green beans but just found out one of my kids loves them and so I must try better as I’ve sort of denied him all but a taster for the first 13 years of his life.  But for the most part the bed is filled with kidney beans and other dried beans that we use a lot in the winter and they are at the point the pods are beginning to turn so it won’t be much longer and then probably a mustard cover crop to sort out the soil in preparation for the spuds – apparently it can help with wireworm, not that I have it but it would be a good practice to get into to keep my spuds safe should they turn up in the future.

  • Winter: So, I’ll be sowing and digging in a mustard cover crop for the benefit of my spuds.
  • Spring: Then once all the lovely nutrients from the cover crop have rotted down and been incorporated into the soil, I plant my spuds.
Kidney beans

I’m started to pick the beans as they dry, rather than wait until they are all dry, otherwise the pods will pop open and fling them far and wide. This is a lesson learnt the hard way from previous seasons.

Bed 19:  was leafy greens – will be beans

In the nursery bed I’ll pop in some more spinach and Asian greens in the hopes of getting to eat them before they bolt and then put them into the current leafy green bed.  There is no point moving anything before then as the rainbow beet, the celery and celeriac will go all winter and the beans don’t like soil temperatures colder than 18C so for now things stay the same.

  • Winter: Just continue to weed and feed.  Hopefully nature will take care of the watering and all we need to do is to eat our fill of lovely leafy greens.
  • Spring: At some point there will be a small window where things need to come out in time for the beans and so the bed will get a tickle with compost and other goodies to refresh it for the beans.

Maybe the celeriac will take off once the rain becomes a more frequent visitor. The best crop I had of this was the year it rained all summer long!

Bed 20:  was cucumbers – will be leafy greens

I still have cucumbers doing their thing with no signs of stopping, although the gherkins are getting a bit much – there are only so many you can pickle before the larder is full.   But while they are still going, I’ll continue to make the most of them and eventually they’ll die of exhaustion and I can prepare the ground for the leafy greens.  Probably with a lovely nitrogen rich lupin cover crop.

  • Winter: Remove the cucumbers when the time is right and sow lupin.
  • Spring: Dig in the lupin with enough time for it to breakdown in the soil for the leafy greens.  They don’t need it to be really warm like other summer crops and so can go in sometime in early spring.
Lemon cucumber

I love growing lemon cucumbers, they don’t tend to get bitter like other cucumbers can.

Bed 21:  was garlic – will be cucumbers

This bed currently has the 4th corn crop and if I have my timings right, I should get a lovely harvest of Painted Mountain Corn before it gets too cold and without any cross pollination from the other corns I’ve grown.   I did give the bed a bit of love with compost and some other goodies between the corn and garlic, but it wouldn’t hurt to put a lupin cover crop to rejuvenate the soil for the cucumbers after so many heavy feeding crops.

  • Winter: Once the corn is finished sow lupin and dig in before it flowers.
  • Spring: Sow cucumbers and gherkins.
Painted mountain corn

The Painted mountain corn is the last of the 4 corns I have grown this summer. I just hope there is enough time for it to mature and dry on the plant. Fingers crossed.

And there you have it!   But I can’t sit around all day admiring my handy work, I have things to do and seeds to sow and crops to harvest.  I don’t expect I’ll be short of things to do this winter.

Garden beds

The final row in the garden crop rotation cycle. It is lovely to see beds full of life when not so long ago there was nothing here at all!

Come again soon – Autumn starts in a couple of days.

Sarah the Gardener  : o)

Cycle Two

Following on from my deep and slightly obsessive thoughts about my winter crop rotation, today we are looking at cycle two.  This is the biggest one as there are no permanent unmoveable crops in this group.  So, it will be seven years before anyone is back where they started.  No chance for disease to build up or certain nutrients to become exhausted to the point of depletion!  Overkill I know, but just by moving the sign one spot to the right once a year saves a lot of headaches.

Garden beds

This is the group of garden beds with the longest crop rotation cycle.

For the in between mid-winter period for many of these beds, the window of time for doing much more than just adding well-rotted manure and compost is the best that can be done.  Ideally, I’d love to grow cover crops on all the beds to keep the garden feeling alive and doing good at the same time, but it just isn’t practical.

Crop rotation plan

As a visual creature, as soon as I dropped the details into the graphic it all became clear. Prior to doing this I would go and stand in the middle of the garden to do my thinking!

But one of the things I like to try and squeeze in over the winter is wheat, not so much as a cover crop, although it will lock in nutrients and therefore prevent them from leaching out in the winter rains, but to harvest and dry the straw to use a mulch.  While this will eventually return nutrients to the soil, at the point of harvest – but especially if the straw is laid in a different bed, I will still need to enrich the beds before the next crop with well-rotted manure and compost and other goodies just as I would after harvesting a crop, which it is – in a way.


I love growing wheat, aside from all the academic reasons, but they are so tactile and I love running my hands across the top of the crop.


Bed 9:  was pepper – will be onion overflow

If we don’t get frosts, there is no knowing, at this point, how long the peppers will keep going as they are perennials.  Only time will tell.  But I am hoping they will carry on long enough for a good harvest, yet finish up midwinter for the onions to go in.  I may even just relocate them into their new bed as mature adults but having said that I like starting them from seed in spring – they are the first and it is a tradition….  But for now, I don’t know what I’ll do.

  • Winter: For this bed at some point before mid-winter the peppers will need to come out, the soil enriched and the red onions, shallots, elephant garlic and leeks will go in.
  • Spring: This then becomes an easy bed to just weed, feed and water all spring.

I am looking forward to the mulato peppers as apparently the best way to enjoy them is dried and they are supposed to have a chocolatety hint. I have the dehydrator at the ready.

Bed 10: was sweetcorn – will be peppers

The sweetcorn is safely in the freezer ready to bring sunshine to a winter day and the bed has been planted with all my excess broad bean seeds.  I only grow a couple, because I don’t like them that much, but as a legume it just made sense not to waste the rest of them in the packet and I’ll dig them in before they flower.  Hopefully this will be before I relocate mature peppers if necessary or at a more leisurely pace in later on.  Next year, because there is such a huge gap between the sweetcorn and the peppers it makes sense to grow wheat here instead.

  • Winter: I’ll be digging in broad beans and I may be planting peppers.
  • Spring: I’ll probably still sow pepper seeds, in case something goes horribly wrong.  If I don’t need them, I can give them away.
broad bean

The first broad bean acting as a cover crop in a waste not want not way has made its appearance.

Bed 11:  was melons – will be sweetcorn

This bed is currently maturing some rather large watermelons and producing what seems to be an abundance of rock and honeydew melons.  But I’d say there are only a couple of weeks left in this bed before the melons are gobbled up and it gets cleared away.

  • Winter: As the sweetcorn is in a tight schedule for my ambitions to grow 4 different types of corn over the growing season, but there is a fairly long winter window between the melons and the corn, I need to act straight away to get something planted when the last melon is harvested. I was toying with the idea of growing lupin because the sweetcorn is such a tall and hungry plant, but the opportunity to actually get some straw in the time available is too good to be missed.
  • Spring: The sweetcorn plants will be directly sown on Labour weekend at the end of October, so I need to harvest the wheat before then.  If it is still green, then I’ll just dig it in with nothing wasted.

The melons have gone crazy. I didn’t realise there were so many Honeydews hanging out with my Sugar Baby.

Bed 12:  was odds and sods – will be melons

I have some ordinary popcorn in here that had nicely dried on the plant and can be harvested today. The okra has only just taken off so I’m hoping for an Indian Summer so I can even see a harvest.  I do love a pickled okra.  The peanuts can be dug up when the leaves go yellow, but they are still a verdant shade of green and still flowering so who knows when that will be.  And at the end of this bed one of the eggplants is going strong and the other never really did well.  The frost is supposed to take them out.

  • Winter: It is most likely by winter things will have come to a natural end.  Then I’ll sow a cover crop – probably mustard as the peanuts are legumes and it is good not to do back to back crops in a good crop rotation cycle.
  • Spring: The melons don’t need to go in until things really warm up so there is no hurry preparing their soil.

The peanuts have gone nuts! There are only four plants in there. I’m hoping for good things.

Bed 13:  was salad – will be odds and sods

The salad succession was terrible.  I need to improve.  But as we wind down into autumn I want to try and get into the swing of things so will keep growing them for as long as I can.

  • Winter: Once it gets to a point where it seems like a good time to stop growing them, then I’ll probably go for a nice thick addition of well-rotted manure to prepare the ground for the odds and sods
  • Spring: The ordinary popcorn will be sown from seed in early spring so it can go out as good-sized seedlings on Labour weekend in late October to fit in with the tight schedule from the 4 corns varieties I want to grow.  Other than that, the other seedlings will be started indoors in good time to get them in the ground around Labour Weekend.

I must to better with my salad succession. You really can’t beat some crisp lettuce on a sandwich chocked fill of other summer things like tomato, cucumber, beetroot, cheese, ham and a smear of hummus. I have really let the side down.

Bed 14:  was zucchini – will be salad

Powdery mildew has only just hit these plants and they are slowing down, but I have been making a lovely zucchini relish to make up for the lack of tomato relish that normally got us through the year bringing tomatoey joy until it was time to make it again.  They will get to a point as the weather cools where they aren’t producing enough, but without a frost, I don’t know when that will be.  But they will be whipped out at some point in the winter.

  • Winter: The plants will need to be taken out, hopefully not while still productive as I need to swap over the salad succession planting into their new season home to make way for the soil prep for the odds and sods.
  • Spring: I will continue to attempt to get a successful succession of salad crops across the entire growing season.

I have no idea how long the zucchini will keep going, but I’m looking forward to finding out.

Bed 15:  was onion overflow – will be zucchini

The final bed in this crop rotation is moving the zucchini to the where the onions were – but this is also where the leeks are still lingering and so I will need to seek out as many different ways to eat leeks to ensure they are gone before we need the bed in late October.

  • Winter: There won’t be time to put in a cover crop between the leeks and the zukes so it will most likely need to be an enriching with well-rotted manure and a bit of a dig.  Having said that, the leeks are only taking up half the bed so it makes sense to fill it with something and why not with wheat, so I have even more mulch to spread around the garden.  I’ll need to get onto that straight away.
  • Spring: Once the leeks are gone and the wheat harvested, I’ll need to spread the manure and compost prior to the zucchini being planted.  Nothing like a bit of a dig in the crisp spring air to feel alive!

The leeks are only taking up half of the bed so it makes perfect sense to utilise the other half with something useful.

And that is the plan for the middle row of the garden.  It would seem the worms have their work cut out for them dragging all that well rotted manure deep into the soil.  But rather them than me!  There is just one last group that needs to be discussed and then I can throw myself into the new season that is just days away.

Come again soon – to find out how I solved my carrot conundrum.

Sarah the Gardener : o)

Cycle one

I spent the weekend with a nagging feeling in the back of my mind…. ‘I need to sort out this crop rotation cover crop thing.  Once it is done, I’ll never have to think of it again.’  But there were other exciting things to occupy my time, so I pushed the reoccurring thought away.  But with the start of a new week and a decidedly autumnal feel to the air I was reluctant to go out into the garden until things warmed up.  It wasn’t cold on a normal cold scale, but when things plunge dramatically from the high 20Cs to the low 20Cs and late teens – you feel it.  This is temperatures I would delight in, in the spring, but in summer it is all a bit of a shock.

garden group one

The first row is the subject of the first crop rotation cycle.

So, I decided to sit down and figure all of this out in the ‘warmth’ of indoors until the sun warmed the garden.  But I never made it outside as a wrestled with who needs what.  But once it fell into place it all made sense and I wondered why it took so long and freaked me out so much.  But I had to go through the process to make sure I got it right.

As this is more for me than anything else, so I have resource to refer back to, I wrote out lengthy explanations as to why I made the decisions I made so I wouldn’t confuse my future self.   Which caused it to be quite long winded, so I have broken it up into 3 instalments for you, to make it light and interesting.   The half of the garden that was to be explored is actually nicely divided into 3 crop rotation cycles, so it was easy to split my explanations along those lines too.

garden plan

I have made plans for each area of the garden and think I may just laminate it to use as a reference from year to year. The crops listed are the ones it will be in the spring.

So today we are looking at what is going on in crop rotation cycle one and what will happen over the next couple of seasons.  There are 5 beds that rotate in this cycle and so the brassica won’t be in the same place for 5 years.  I’ve also avoided using mustard as a cover crop in this rotation to reduce the risk of club root disease and I only have one Solanaceae group here as well.  All in all, the needs of each bed are varied.  I hope it makes sense.


Bed 4:  was squash – will be brassicas

This bed is currently home to butternut and buttercup squash and a baby bear pumpkin that seems to be loving it and there is less baby about it and more oversized adolescent!  So much for the individual stuffed pumpkins I envisaged serving midwinter!  These have maybe 3 – 4 weeks left as the leaves are still green and vibrant.

  • Winter: So once harvested, I’ll re-enrich soil and sow lupin cover crop to revitalise the soil and prepare it for the brassicas in the spring.
  • Spring: About 5 – 6 weeks before I need the bed – around early Sept I’ll dig in the cover crop and sow new brassica seeds indoors so the bed will be ready when the seedlings are.
Baby Bear Pumpkin

My rather large Baby Bear Pumpkin isn’t too far off being ready.

Bed 5: was onions (and popcorn) – will be squash

At the moment this bed has some red strawberry popcorn in as a catch crop after the onion came out.  It is currently at the ‘tassels falling onto the silk’ stage and ideally, I’d like to let the popcorn dry on the plant, so this isn’t going anywhere for a long time.

  • Winter: As the popcorn is a gross feeder, I will pop in a lupin cover crop to replace what nutrients have been used. The squash won’t be planted out until late October so there is plenty of time.
  • Spring: I’ll dig in the cover crop with enough time for it to rot down and incorporate into the soil before the squash seedlings I will have grown from seed are ready to go in.
tassels on strawberry red popcorn

The tassels on strawberry popcorn have a lovely red shade to them.

Bed 6 was tomatoes – will be onions

The tomatoes were are complete disaster thanks to a late discovery of the Tomato Potato Psyllid.  I made some headway in controlling it, but it was too far gone to really save my plants.  There are a couple of plants still in the garden who seem to have them but seem to be coping well enough.  They are the Yellow Pear and the Big Beef.  I’ll be planting these resilient plants again.  But they do look a little sad in the bed by themselves with 18 siblings and their pests evicted weeks ago.

  • Winter: So, when the time comes and the burden is too much for these last plants I’ll pull them out and burn them and dig in some compost, some manure and some blood and bone and prepare the soil for the onions which will go in as seedlings in mid-winter.
  • Spring: All I need to do is weed, feed and water and wait for the harvest in early summer.

This is not my best season for tomatoes.

Bed 7:  Was peas – will be tomatoes

Right now, there is nothing in here, but the framework is still up.  I am hoping today or during the week to take advantage of the much-needed rain we had over the weekend to sow an autumn crop and fill the freezer with fresh peas for winter days.  I may even see how far I can take this crop into the winter if we don’t get frosts here.  It will be interesting to see.

  • Winter: once they finish I’ll re-enrich the soil with a nice layer of well-rotted manure and let the worms work it in and create a healthy soil micro community so the tomatoes have a good home to go to where they can grow strong and hopefully be more resilient to the pests that plague them.
  • Spring: I’ll sow tomatoes and hope for an abundant harvest.
Pea trellis

The pea bed and trellis are ready and waiting for the cool season crops.

Bed 8:  was brassicas – will be peas

This will continue to be brassicas for a second crop this season over the winter months – I’ll start them off in the nursery bed under a net, protected from the ravages of the cabbage white butterfly.  I will have to turf them out early though, if I haven’t eaten them to make way for the peas in the early spring.  I’ll re-enrich the bed before putting the new plants in.

  • Winter: Then we’ll eat brassicas all winter long until there is none left.
  • Spring: I’ll add compost and other goodies to re-enrich soil and sow the peas.  I may have to start them in the nursery bed if there are still stragglers – to buy a few more weeks of time.
flower sprouts

It is too warm here for proper Brussels sprouts but these flower sprouts are a good replacement but it won’t be until some time in the winter that they’ll be ready

Now that wasn’t so painful, and it feels so good to have it sorted out.

Come again soon – tomorrow I’ll have the next instalment of what is going where.

Sarah the Gardener  : o)

What I want to grow in the winter garden

It rained in the night and will rain again today.  This is a welcome relief and for once, a day out of the garden is no bad thing, I can still garden inside as I sit here looking out at the bleakness of the day.  If it wasn’t for the heat of the day, even though it is still early, I could be lured into the belief that it was the kind of grey winter day I’m planning for.  It sets the mood nicely and reminds me of the urgency of the preparation for winter in the way a sunny blue sky can’t.

Gloomy weather

Summer isn’t over yet – there’s still a week left! It is too soon to take my sunshine away. Having said that the rain will be good for the garden and the water tank.

So, I feel pleased with myself in that I know what is to be done with half of the garden and now I need to make plans for the rest.  A good place to start is with what I want to grow.   They are the stars of the next season and shouldn’t be lost to the reluctance of the summer crops to finish or the impatient spring crops to begin.  The next season is winter and if I’m to get the most out of it then these will be my fruit.

I have made the first step in the right direction and have gathered together the seeds I need.  Most were already sitting and waiting in my seed tin.  I did have to go out a buy a few things as while I have broccoli and spinach in my selection, the varieties were summer ones and wouldn’t have done as well over the cool of the next season.  It is important to have the right seeds to match the conditions to get the best outcome – something good to eat.

The seeds I will be growing this season are:

Peas – in order to catch the last of the warmth of the season before it gets too cold, I will be sowing these sooner rather than later.


Fennel started now will be a delight in the early days of spring.

Also to catch the lingering warmth but not expect a harvest until the other end of winter I’ll be sowing broad beans and fennel  The refreshing crispness and lightness of flavour is so welcome in those early days of spring.  The broad beans not so much as I still haven’t made my peace with their flavour, but growing the Hughey variety gives such lovely red flowers in late winter and early spring, so all is forgiven.


Broccoli – a staple vegetable and the bonus of growing them over winter is there is less likely to be hitchhikers found deep within!

My brassicas need topping up.  They are a crop that once eaten is pretty much gone – having said that you can eke them out a little longer by allowing side shoots to form instead of pulling out the whole plant at the point of harvest.  And I need more kohlrabi.  I love kohlrabi, it is so versatile.  And I need more broccoli (a winter variety), Romanesco, and cabbage – savoy and red that were so successful this summer and there is still plenty of time to sow more.


It is a tough call but I am close to declaring kohlrabi as one of my absolute favourite veggies!

I am also going to sow some tatsoi and buk choi in an attempt to take advantage of the cooling weather of autumn as in the rising temperatures of spring, they just bolted before I had the chance to use them.  There is still time to sow these.   They will also be joined in the leafy green section by some winter spinach as the summer spinach went the same way as the Asian greens and bolted too soon.  I didn’t even get to make my ricotta, chicken and spinach stuffed cannelloni with fresh tomato pasta sauce.   I still hanker for it even today.

Tatsoi flowers

While the tatsoi flowers look amazing against the blue of the sky, it would have been nice to have been able to eat some before that happened!

I have the advantage of being able to grow spring onions, carrots, and beetroot all year round and so will continue to succession plant these for a continual supply.  You really can’t beat a fresh carrot.  Although it is important to check the planting times as some won’t be happy being started in the middle of winter.


Carrots are another staple vegetable and as such it is great they can grow in my garden all year long.

I have to confess my summer salad succession planting was a complete disaster.  I started off with a whiz and a bang with more lettuce than I knew what to do with but in the heat it soon bolted. It happened so quickly my supply dried up and seedlings from the garden centre took longer than expected to reach edible size.  I sowed more seed several times but a moments inattention after weeks of nurturing caused them fry to a crisp in the midday sun.   To be honest lettuce doesn’t like the hot weather, but we grow it because that’s when we like to eat it.  It prefers the cooler temperatures of spring and autumn so all going well I will have delightful array of salads to see us as far into winter as possible.  And hopefully beyond with the lambs lettuce that promises to be a superb cool weather salad ingredient.


Lettuce – such a refreshing crop. I really must try harder to master summer salad crops without frying them!

Aside from trying to make summer last I am going to embrace the winter comfort and do some succession sowing of swedes and turnips.  They are old fashioned crops not often seen and maybe that is for good reason, but we’ll see.  They may surprise me in the same way other crops have in the past.  Try everything once and the fun things twice.

swede and turnip

I’m hoping they are comforting in the middle of winter.

Oh and not forgetting the onions and garlic that will be going in later on.  I absolutely need to grow loads of elephant garlic – if not for the scapes alone – they were soo good!

Elephant Garlic scape

I can’t forget to leave loads of room for the elephant garlic.

And now all I have to do is fit these in somewhere.  They will have homes to go to, but will it be the bed that was theirs or the one to be theirs? If only this season was as simple as the spring, everything has a predetermined place thanks to my summer crop rotation plan and so no thinking is required – just planting.   But I’ll get there and next winter will be a doddle.

Come again soon – I have to figure out who goes where like determining place settings at a dysfunctional family wedding.

Sarah the Gardener  : o)

Sorting out the cool season garden

After much deliberation I have a plan…  of sorts.  Outlined below is the first half.  These are the beds where there will be no change really as they aren’t part of the crop rotation, so they are easy enough to deal with.  So, this is what I’ll be doing with my permanent beds.

The Annual Herbs

Winter:  I will try and keep all of these going as long as possible with succession planting of dill and coriander often to try and keep a continual supply but eventually the end will come.

Spring:  At some point over winter will refresh the soil for the new season and sow new herbs from seed.  I won’t be growing borage again – for all that it might look pretty in summer drinks, as a plant it is a rather large and self-seeds prolifically and I’m just not that much of a sucker for a pretty face.


Basil is a must have in the herb garden but it is always quick to try and set seed.

The Perennial Herbs

Winter: I’ll give them a prune to control size – the thyme has gone nuts! I need to refresh the parsley with new seedlings as it has gone to seed and I’m still on the lookout for French Tarragon.

Spring: There’s no change really.

Pizza Thyme

The Pizza Thyme obviously likes its spot in the permanent herb garden, it is attempting to take over!

The Cutting Flower Garden

Winter:  I will remove the spent annuals and refresh the soil.  I’ll also remove the garish pinky orange gladioli and replace with something nicer.

Spring:  I will look for new flowers to replace annuals and start them from seed.


I love my cut flower garden so much I never seem to cut any flowers because they look so pretty where they are!

The Asparagus

Winter: Once the fronds turn yellow, I’ll cut them back and apply enriched compost to bed.

Spring:  I’m looking forward to enjoying a few 2nd year asparagus spears and then go back to waiting for the real harvest next year.


Judging by how well these year old asparagus crowns have settled in bodes well for a bumper crop for years to come.

The Bee Flower Bed

Winter:  This very last bed needs to finish having the soil added.   Maybe I’ll plant wheat as a cover crop to use as a mulch elsewhere, as most wild flowers don’t like things too nutrient rich so it should work well.

Spring:  Then once I harvest the wheat, I just need to sow seed and enjoy.

The Yams

Winter:  Once plants die completely down, I can see what kind of harvest I have – if any and then, replenish the soil and re-sow with more yams in the hope of a better season

Spring: All I need to do in spring is weed, feed and water and repeat all summer long.


I suspect we are too warm to grow yams well – but that won’t ever stop me trying. The fun is in the trying.

The Globe artichokes

Winter: There isn’t a lot to be done aside from side dressing the soil with enriched compost.

Spring:  Just wait for the harvest – assuming there will be one – artichoke is delish!

Globe artichoke

All going well, this time next year this globe artichoke plant will be huge…

The Jerusalem Artichokes

Winter:  This didn’t go well last season.  They died before they got started.  So, I need to source new tubers.  I think I know where I can find some.

Spring: Once I know they are alive, I will need to set up structures to support the tall growing plants.

The Nursery Bed

Winter:  It is rather decadent to have a bed set aside to grow seedlings in but over the autumn it will come into its own as I use it as a seed raising bed for the winter crops.

Spring:  I should use this bed like a cold frame to help harden plants off.

The Rhubarb

Winter:  This is another set and forget plant and all I need to do is side dress with loads of well-rotted organic material and wait.

Spring:  Finally harvest stalks after trying hard to follow the rules last season about not picking any in the first year.  All I can say is the wind made me do it – if it was going to loosen them, then it would be a waste not to use them!

The Pumpkins

Winter:  In an ideal world they would be part of the crop rotation – they are sooo big!  So, I need to pay careful attention to make sure their soil stays healthy.  So, once I harvest the pumpkins, I’ll re-enrich the soil and grow a cover crop – possibly mustard to clean soil.  Adding loads of organic material to the soil will also help with moisture retention in the heat of summer.

Spring: I will dig in the cover crop 6 – 8 weeks before I need the beds (which is about 6 – 8 before the last frost – if we get them) or before the cover crop flowers – whichever comes first to allow the organic material to rot down and become incorporated into the soil.  In the meantime, I’ll start the new pumpkins from seed under glass.


Unfortunately the pumpkin don’t fit in a crop rotation cycle so I have to really look after their soil

The Bonus Flower Bed

Winter:  This was an unexpected bed in front of the chicken coop and last season I just dumped in my left-over flower seedlings.  This time I need to decide what to actually do with it to make a nice display at the end of the garden. I know I want sweet peas so will sow them in winter.

Spring: I will put my master plan for this garden into action and sow seeds and source plants – maybe a rose or two with a nice smell and fat hips.

Bonus flower bed

This space really needs some proper thought and serious design to make the end of the garden a feature, not an after thought.

And in the Fruit beds:

The Raspberries and Boysenberry

Winter:  I used to have a raspberry that fruited in summer and autumn but the pruning technique was confusing so when I got the opportunity to get new ones I got 3 summer ones and 3 autumn ones and so all I need to do is cut the autumn ones back to the ground and take the canes out of the summer ones that have already fruited and the same for the boysenberry.  Then all they need is a side dress with enriched compost.

Spring: As they grow, I’ll just tie them into the trellis and wait for an abundant crop.


With years of complicated raspberry pruning behind me, I look forward to a more simple approach and an abundant harvest.

The Currants and 1st Year Strawberries

Winter: The currants will need a prune – damaged and crossed branches and to train it into a nice open shape with good airflow.   The strawberries just need a tidy up and remove the runners.  These will become next year’s 2-year-old plants.  Then I’ll side dress with enriched compost for all the plants in the bed.

Spring: This will entail weeding, feeding and watering and before the season is out there will be gobbling up delicious berries.

Strawberry runner

Strawberries are so great at ensuring their survival. This runner is a direct descendant of a 6 pack of plants I purchased over 15 years ago!

The 2nd & 3rd Year Strawberries

Winter:  Although technically they aren’t 3 years old yet, I will remove the plants with the 3rd year strawberry sign and replace them with runners to create next year’s 1-year old plants.   It might seem harsh, but you have to start somewhere to get a rotation cycle going so you only have 1st, 2nd and 3rd year old plants all performing at their optimum.  Then I’ll clean up the 2nd year plants and remove runners.  These will become next year’s 3-year olds.

Spring: I’ll weed, feed, water and gorge myself on big fat berries until I can’t take it anymore!

The Blueberries and Gooseberries

Winter:  These may need a prune, but they are young and small so probably not.  Then I’ll clear the spent cape gooseberries.  They self-seed terribly but are good to eat so it is best they stay put from year to year.  For the sake of everyone in this bed the soil will get a side dress and a jolly good re-enrich.

Spring:  In the hopes of a fabulous harvest I will weed, feed, water and sow new cape gooseberries to go with the ones that will inevitably pop up on their own.

Cape Gooseberries

I love cape gooseberries, but these are running a little behind because they were planted late I can hardly wait!

And now I know what I will be doing with half of the garden, I need to take a deep breath and work out what need to do with the other half.

Come again soon – for the next exciting installment of my new season planning.

Sarah the Gardener  : o)

Wrapping my head around the cool season

Ok so I’ve done some thinking…. About how I will tackle the next season.  But I’d like to say that this is as convoluted as getting my head around crop rotation in the first place!  Once I realised this, I decided I’d do it once and do it right, and then each autumn I can come back here as all the thinking necessary will have been done.

Empty bed

Now the sweetcorn is gone this bed won’t be needed until late October when the new season peppers get planted. The question is: how to make the best use of the bed in the meantime? hmmm….

What makes it complicated is several factors.  Firstly, which summer crops are lingering about and how long will they remain there, eking out their last ounce of productivity.  I could be ruthless and say, “I need the space, out you come!” but that would be at the expense of one last zucchini or tomato.  After a season without a garden I am certainly not going to waste a single opportunity for some fresh homegrown goodness, and as we don’t get frost here…  who knows when that will be.


A basket of fresh produces is not to be taken for granted.

The next question is, when do the new proper season crops go in? (you know…  the spring ones, because growing during the winter is just killing time really – but you didn’t hear that from me!)  The last crops to go in in the spring will be the ones that really need it to be warm outside, the beans, peppers and melons are generally on the slow side.


Who knows how long the peppers will last in this frost free environment.

But some go in rather early.  For example, I’m putting my new garlic in in April because I want to avoid the risk of rust.  My early garlic last year did really well without any orange dots dusting their tips.  The mid-winter ones were hit in the last month of growth and came to nothing.  They didn’t even get to bulb up!  If I hadn’t have grown the early ones, I would have given up on growing garlic altogether.

Carrot seedlings

I wonder if these carrots will make it to maturity or will they get in the way of the garlic?

This causes a bit of a problem I hadn’t foreseen when I did my crop rotation.  I wish I had.  Because the garlic follows the carrots and the carrots can go all year round, so now I have to decide do I plant my next successional row in the current carrot bed, and find I hold up the garlic, or do I start them off now in the potato bed – that still has potatoes in it, but only because I haven’t decided how I am going to store them this winter, and so have been digging up meal sized amounts at a time.  It feels too early to be rotating crops.  But any carrot seeds sown today will be ready in early June.  Ok so the spuds need to come out and become the new Carrot and Root Crop bed.  Although I’m not sure about the ones I sowed a few weeks back…  They may not be ready in time….  and this is a classic example of how every little thing you do in the garden needs to be examined as to how it fits in the big picture.  And this is just the garlic, carrot, potato conundrum.  Don’t get me started on the pea, brassica, squash problem!


I guess I’ll need to get in there and harvest all the spuds instead of as we need them…. but it is too hot to dig right now.

Then I need to decide what I actually want to grow over the winter.  So, I poured over every available source of winter crops and decided everything I can and actually want to grow is already on my list and in my seed tin.  Some of these are a one hit wonder – grow it once and its gone and others can be successionally planted between now and when the temperatures drop and growth all but ceases.  So, I need to figure out how much of each I want to grow for now and for later.  Bearing in mind the later could impact the planting of the spring crops.  The thought of waiting all winter for something only to have to rip it out because sweetcorn is more exciting.

cool season seeds

I think I have the seeds I need for the next season

Once I know how much space I need for what I want, then I need to think about where to put it, taking into consideration the window of opportunity in some of the beds.  I also need to decide to keep it in its normal crop rotation slot and put it in the old bed or in the new bed…  hence the carrot conundrum.  Or do I put it somewhere else where it won’t impact other crop rotation issues, like planting too many brassicas seasonally close together to build up disease in the soil.


At least I don’t have to worry about the asparagus – it’s not going anywhere. Not for the next 25 years or so!

Once I figure out where the winter crops will go – fitting them in around the old and the new summer crops, I need to decide what to do with the empty beds.  Cover crops are a great idea to get a green manure thing going on so I can enrich the beds naturally and replace the goodies in the soil that was taken by the previous crops.  But even this creates time issues.  You need to allow 6 – 8 weeks prior to needing the bed for the new crops to ensure all the organic material dug into the soil is well rotted and incorporated into earth.

Kidney beans

The kidney beans beginning to bulge and so it won’t be long before they are dried and done.

The other issue to give some thought to with cover crops is – which one?  Legume crops like lupin and Lucerne has nitrogen fixing abilities through its root nodules so would be great after a hungry crop like sweetcorn.  Other cover crops like oats are more carbon rich and will help to add structure to soil once dug in.   Mustard is another great cover crop and is said to be able to heal and restore the soil, especially after a crop that was plagued with disease, like the rust in the late garlic.  But you need to look twice before you cross the street with this one – was there a brassica in the bed, or in the one before it or after it as you really don’t want to increase the risk of club root.  If you get that you’ll never be able to grow brassicas again!

garden planning

Figuring out where very thing goes is like one of those complicated puzzles you find in the back of newspapers and magazines

I also like to grow wheat in some of my spare winter beds to use the straw as a mulch, but it generally isn’t ready for harvest until late September, so it is finding the right spot for it.  And for some beds nothing seems to work and there is no time to plant anything, so these ones will probably just end up with a thick layer of manure for the worms to work in, with possibly a bit of help from a fork if they don’t work hard enough in the time allowed.

So now I know what needs thinking about and why, I think I need to get out a piece of paper and a pencil and try and make it all fit together in a logical plan.  I’ll let you know what I come up with.

Come again soon – I may need a wee lie down after I figure this out.

Sarah the Gardener : o)

Summer can’t last forever

Today is hot.  There is a gentle breeze coming off the sea, but in the microclimate of my garden, the wind speed monitor is turning lazily without a care in the world.  The hot sun beats down on the black sand paths, bouncing the heat from the dark surface, making it impossible to walk across barefoot.  The golden brown of the spent grasses on the hillsides and the intense blue of the sky all work together to make the garden seem like a scorching hot zone, where gardening is, for the moment, undesirable.  The best times to make the most of the garden are first thing in the morning and in the late afternoon and early evening.

summer sky

The sky is blue and the hills are brown

Fortunately, there isn’t much to be done in the garden – well nothing of great urgency.  The weeds are under control with my weekly routine of staying on top of the little ones.  The watering, thanks to the swamp soil I bought with me only needs to be done every 3 – 4 days and can go even longer at a push.  The harvest is great, although due to everything going in later than I would have liked isn’t really at that glut status yet, and I suspect the best I will end up with will be in the realms of ‘manageable’.  I have great hopes for next season when everything will go into the garden in a timely fashion.

View to sea

The sea breeze is a real blessing and takes the edge off a hot day.

But what I am beginning to see, while I certainly don’t feel it, is the beginning of the end of summer.  For example, I harvested my sweetcorn the other day and vacuum sealed it and popped it into the freezer to bring sunshine to a winter day.  Sweetcorn is always such a dramatic crop to grow and at its height, it dominates the landscape of the garden as it towers above everything else.  However, once the ears are plucked, there is no reason to leave it there and so it makes sense to chop it down.  The result is the garden no longer looks the same.  There is something missing.  Like when someone you’ve always known to wear a moustache suddenly shaves it off.  It doesn’t look or feel right.

Frozen sweetcorn

Frozen sweetcorn is the best way to bring sunshine to a winter day


There are still plenty of crops in the garden and many will be there for sometime to come, like the pumpkins who will be there until the bitter end, as their leaves dry up and wither away.  The peppers should keep going until the frost takes them out, and to be honest they are really only just getting started now.  Having said that, we don’t get frosts here.  I wonder if that means they’ll just keep going.  I’m looking forward to testing this one out!


The pumpkins are in for the long haul and still have a long time to go before the harvest can begin and the plants removed.

But slowly and surely the crops within the garden will be either eaten and enjoyed like the brassicas and the beetroot or give up the will to live after producing a bountiful harvest for months on end like the cucumbers and zucchini.  This inevitable end will not only mark the passing of the season, but create empty beds.  But the thing is nature abhors bare soil and will seek to colonise it immediately and the golden seed heads from the grasses on the hill have probably be eyeing up my fertile soil all summer long.  I need to do something to protect my beds over the winter.


The peppers are just starting to kick in and each plant hides many fruit.

The first thing I can do is grow more crops.  The winter crops aren’t half as exciting or as numerous as the summer selection, however I have the space and can ensure my winter diet need not be stodgy.  I need to make a plan.  I need to check the seeds I have and see if there are other exciting-ish crops that can fill my beds and make my winter gardening experience delightful.

Sandy garden path

The heat radiating from the black sand paths is pretty intense in the middle of the day.

Realistically it won’t be possible to fill all the beds.  There is only so much cabbage one can force ones family to eat.  And then there are other things to consider, will a bed filled with winter cabbage, mostly uneaten…  run into congestion problems in the spring.  Will my poor family be eating cabbage in every meal so their space can be cleared in time to plant the new season peas?  Or could I get away with putting a long season crop in a bed destined to be occupied by the peppers that can be planted up to two months later than the peas?  This all needs to be considered.

summer sky

Some beds are already empty, like this one with the not so recently vacated onions and shallots leaving a few leeks at the other end.

Of the remaining beds, the decision needs to be made – what to do with them.  Growing a cover crop is a great way to keep the beds weed free, give winter interest and by digging them in 6 – 8 weeks before needed, the soil can be enriched and ready for the new season.  But which bed suits which cover crop?  It doesn’t make sense to follow brassicas with mustard, although a popular cover crop, as it can contribute to long term risk of club root disease as it is also a brassica.  Not just any old cover crop will do.  A legume crop will be ideal for replacing all the goodness the sweetcorn took from the soil creating those tall plants.  This needs a bit of thought.

Parsley going to seed

Even the parsley is going to seed. But I have found these green seeds can pack a parsley punch.

So, while I’m holed up inside on a hot and sunny day, waiting for the temperatures to drop, it makes perfect sense to decide what I’m doing next.

Come again soon – this summer isn’t going to last forever and I have plans to make.

Sarah the Gardener  : o)

10 Year Special and Garden Tour

Today marks a pretty cool milestone for me.  It was 10 years ago today that I hesitantly uploaded my very first video to You Tube.  I was a great fan of those early gardening videos, although there weren’t many of them.  I would spend my Saturday mornings searching them out and being inspired by them before getting out in the garden myself.  There was a point where I could say ‘there wasn’t a gardening video on You Tube I hadn’t seen.’  It is very different today, everyone is at it!  But back then my weekends were filled with familiar voices, many of whom are still sharing great content and others have fallen by the wayside.  I enjoyed content from Sean James Cameron at ‘Diary of a UK Gardener’, Dan at ‘Allotment Diary’, Claire at ‘Claire’s Allotment‘, Patti Moreno at ‘GardenGirlTV‘ and the delightful ‘Gardenvespers777’, Donna at ‘Rainbow Gardens’ and ‘Webcajun’.

The new garden

After all these years I find myself in the most unexpected of places – beside the sea, but with a flourishing garden that I get to enjoy every day.

It was their friendliness that gave me the courage to upload my own video.  For most of them they were just ordinary people with ordinary gardens sharing their passion, without drama or great production.  You just needed to be yourself and you’d be fine, so with Hubby the Un-Gardener behind the camera I filmed my first video of my first garden in a very early incarnation.  In those days videos could only be ten minutes long, so I had to split it in two in order to show it all.  And with that I embarked on a social media journey that follows a similar path of the garden, getting bigger and better as time goes on.

The old garden

The old garden, oh how I still miss it. I lovingly built it up over many years and it was the backdrop to everything I did. But I know it is in good hands now.

Blogging came next, with my first writings appearing as part of a blogging competition in Spring 2010, then Facebook, Twitter and lately Instagram… Not to mention writing books, speaking engagements and brand ambassador work which I absolutely love doing. But while I’m not the most prolific video contributor – it takes a lot of effort to film, edit and upload those short little snippets of garden life, I have remained present on my channel over the last decade with sometimes sporadic posts, and briefly I managed a season with a frequency that could almost be called regular!

The early garden

The early garden was made up of 4 in ground beds and a strawberry patch. It only lasted a season where it was because it flooded in the winter. But I was undeterred. I’d been bitten by the gardening bug!

And so, in tribute to this special day I did the logical – I made a video.  A tour and overview of my garden.  So join me in my garden on this lovely sunny summer day as I mark the occasion.

Come again soon – goodness knows what the next ten years have in store.

Sarah the Gardener  : o)


NB:  the bold green words are links to wonderful places…

Breathless moments

I did a bit of poking about on the great big internet to discover that a moment is 90 seconds, which is good to know.  This garden has provided more than its fair share of memorable moments.  Some memorable for the wrong reasons and others wonderfully unforgettable.

blue sky days

This summer was filled with days like this, days that made summer feel like it could go on forever

But the most surprising moments were the breathless ones.  The ones without wind.  Everyone said, “you won’t be able to grow much there, it is too windy.”  I have defied them as evident in the flourishing garden I have managed to create.  Ok there is wind but for the middle of the growing season it isn’t all that bad and compared to my old garden in the open, often windswept swamp, it isn’t out of the ordinary.

weather station

This weather station has been a most excellent gift and I will enjoy it for years to come

And I know all of this because is I got a fabulous weather station for Christmas.  I set it up in the centre of the garden and it measures so many aspects of my microclimate.  I can find out the pressure, humidity, dew point, and other things I still have to understand their relevance.  But that will come with time.  For now, I’m most interested in two things – wind and rain.

Jan 19 wind direction

It just goes to show that most of the wind comes in around the sides of the house, and the rest is blocked by the hills surrounding my garden.

Over the last month the wind came from all four quarters and directions in between.  But it comes as no surprise that the predominate direction was from the West (42%) and from the Southwest (28%).  It rarely came from the Northeast – only for 1.3% of the time.  And it wasn’t really that strong – not compared to the 212km/h winds that we experienced last April. The worst that was delivered in January was 27km/h with the worst gusts at 44km/h.  Ok so I had to prop up the sweetcorn a couple of times, but it was nothing serious.

Sweet corn tassles

In spite of a few set backs early on, with the wind applying a jaunty lean, the sweetcorn went on to grow tall and strong and should provide a fabulous harvest.

One thing I was really not expecting was there were moments with no wind at all.  1320 of them to be precise.  (Bearing in mind a moment is 90 seconds.) There were 33 hours without so much as a puff of wind.  This happened on 12 days with one day being calm for an astonishing 10.5 hours!   This place is beginning to lose that wild reputation with me – well for the month of January at least.

Jan 19 hours without wind

Now this info took me completely by surprise.

The rain is another set of data I devoured with great interest.  In the old place we had an unlimited supply of water in the form of a bore.  Here we only have the rain collected from the roof of the house.  We have two 30 thousand litre tanks, one for the house and one for the garden.  But the garden one has never been filled to the top as we installed it in September and the winter rains stopped and we had to start the summer with a truckload of water and got another the other day.

Gloomy days

Not all the days were blue sky perfect. Some started off positively gloomy!

I got the sense that we weren’t getting the kind of rain other people got. The water laden clouds would sail on by to dump on our inland neighbours, or it was accompanied by wind and so it would come in horizonal and wasn’t able to land on the roof.  Water, water everywhere and not a drop to drink couldn’t be more apt.

Jan 19 rainfall

You can see at a glance how summery the summer has been, with a deep soaking in the garden mid way through,

There wasn’t a lot of rain in January, but as much as I would like to say “well it is midsummer.” But that isn’t a fair call as in more years than not it is a wash out, just as everyone goes out camping in their tents.  It is like nature has a cruel sense of humour.   But this year was one of the good ones, endless blue-sky summer days.  And the numbers agree – we only had 49.2mm of rain over 5 January days, and 40.2 of those where on one single day!

Temperature for Jan

All this talk of a heatwave and it would seem it completely missed us. These aren’t exceptional January temperatures. I wonder how much the sea breeze helped to cool things down.

They say knowledge is power and I look forward to gathering more data over the months and years and get a good insight into what is actually going on here so I won’t be bound by the limitations of what I think will cope on the wild west.  If the veggie patch is anything to go on, the possibilities are very exciting indeed!

Come again soon – late summer is now upon us.

Sarah the Gardener  : o)

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